Freitag, 27. Januar 2017
Exportiere cwx Datei in Cewe Kalender Android App importieren
Das Android Programm Cewe Kalender ermöglicht es erstelle Projekte zu exportieren. Leider gibt es keine Import Funktion in der Benutzeroberfläche. Außerdem ist keine Dokumentation zu diesem Feature vorhanden. Ich habe zufällig eine Möglichkeit entdeckt wie man trotzdem eine zuvor exportierte Projekt Datei mit der Endung "cwx" wieder importieren kann. Das hat mir einiges an Arbeit erspart und darum möchte ich hier meine Vorgehensweise kurz erläutern: Man öffnet in einem Dateimanager (z.B. EZ File Explorer) auf dem internen Speicher den Ordner "Projects" oder "My Photo Projects". Dort befindet sich ein Ordner namens "import". Kopiert man die cwx Datei in diesen Ordner und starten dann die Cewe App wird das Projekt automatisch importiert.
Dienstag, 14. Juni 2016
Hokuyo UST-10LX/20LX firmware update from 2.17 to 2.19
I had some troubles doing a firmware update on our Hokuyo UST-10 laser scanner and want to share here what I discovered:
The problem was that the "Smart Updater 2.0" tool lost the connection to the scanner during the update. When I retried the software wanted me to enter my serial number, but then it said that no settings backup was found. The Hokuyo support told me to enter the number without the trailing "A", but this also didn't help. They also told me that the backup file is stored under:
Still the updated process didn't work. It seems like on every reboot of the Hokuyo during the update process, windows or the Hokuyo is unable to reconnect (The ethernet device is shown as "cable disconnected"). After replugging the ethernet cable the connection is established again.
So I used the ultimate counter intuitive trick for firmware updates ever:
I unplugged and replugged the cable during the update!
Every time the "Connection" dialog with the green infinite loading bar appeared I waited for 3 seconds and then unplugged and replugged the cable. Sometimes the process just continues but sometimes some error messages appear. Just click them away and wait. The update still continues!
With this technique I was able to update from 2.17 to 2.19 and then to 2.21. It seems that update 2.19 partly fixed the reconnect issue, because after some reboots the reconnect work but I still had to unplug once to make the whole process work.
I used a Windows 8.1 notebook with its IP set to 192.168.0.1 directly connected to the Hokuyo's with its IP set to 192.168.0.10 before update. Perhaps the static IPs and/or windows 8.1 lead to this problem. I haven't tried the update in a DHCP setup with other Windows versions yet.
For now the laser works again with the UrgBenriPlus tool and the ROS node. But somehow the webinterface stopped working...
I just got a response from an Hokuyo engineer regarding my story:
First of all, good to know the ".ust_backup" was actually there and that you finally upgraded your sensor.
There is an old problem with all UST-**LX that the encoding symbol ("A") at the end of the serial number (printed in the sensor label) is never configured on the firmware. The customer reads from the label "H*******A" and types the same text in the SmartUpdater but the sensor will refuse because it doesn't understand the final letter. The future versions of the firmware update script ("*.ust") will fix this issue.
As to the unplug/replug trick of the Ethernet cable during the update process, the old 2.17/2.19 firmwares had a bug causing it to use different MAC addresses in normal mode and during updating mode. Windows does not react well with MAC address changes on the fly so the solution is to flush the ARP table. For that run the following command on the command prompt:
unplugging/replugging the Ethernet cable also works because the sensor sends a gratuitous ARP message informing its current IP address every time the cable is replugged. Anyway that problem was correctly fixed on version 2.21. Also we will try to add a troubleshooting section in our web page detailing this and other issues.
Finally, regarding the web interface, it was an experimental/non-documented/not-fully-tested functionality we decided to drop. So from 2.19 it is not operational. Good thing you explored thoroughly the sensor capabilities beyond what is written.
So you can just execute "arp -d" in your console instead of re-plugging the cable!
The problem was that the "Smart Updater 2.0" tool lost the connection to the scanner during the update. When I retried the software wanted me to enter my serial number, but then it said that no settings backup was found. The Hokuyo support told me to enter the number without the trailing "A", but this also didn't help. They also told me that the backup file is stored under:
C:/Users/<username>/AppData/Local/Hokuyo Automation Co,LTD/Smart Updater/<serialnumber>.ust_backupI noticed that the filename was my serial number without the trailing "A" but also without the leading "H". So I entered only the numbers into the Smart Updater dialog and the updated started again.
Still the updated process didn't work. It seems like on every reboot of the Hokuyo during the update process, windows or the Hokuyo is unable to reconnect (The ethernet device is shown as "cable disconnected"). After replugging the ethernet cable the connection is established again.
So I used the ultimate counter intuitive trick for firmware updates ever:
I unplugged and replugged the cable during the update!
Every time the "Connection" dialog with the green infinite loading bar appeared I waited for 3 seconds and then unplugged and replugged the cable. Sometimes the process just continues but sometimes some error messages appear. Just click them away and wait. The update still continues!
With this technique I was able to update from 2.17 to 2.19 and then to 2.21. It seems that update 2.19 partly fixed the reconnect issue, because after some reboots the reconnect work but I still had to unplug once to make the whole process work.
I used a Windows 8.1 notebook with its IP set to 192.168.0.1 directly connected to the Hokuyo's with its IP set to 192.168.0.10 before update. Perhaps the static IPs and/or windows 8.1 lead to this problem. I haven't tried the update in a DHCP setup with other Windows versions yet.
For now the laser works again with the UrgBenriPlus tool and the ROS node. But somehow the webinterface stopped working...
Update:
I just got a response from an Hokuyo engineer regarding my story:
First of all, good to know the ".ust_backup" was actually there and that you finally upgraded your sensor.
There is an old problem with all UST-**LX that the encoding symbol ("A") at the end of the serial number (printed in the sensor label) is never configured on the firmware. The customer reads from the label "H*******A" and types the same text in the SmartUpdater but the sensor will refuse because it doesn't understand the final letter. The future versions of the firmware update script ("*.ust") will fix this issue.
As to the unplug/replug trick of the Ethernet cable during the update process, the old 2.17/2.19 firmwares had a bug causing it to use different MAC addresses in normal mode and during updating mode. Windows does not react well with MAC address changes on the fly so the solution is to flush the ARP table. For that run the following command on the command prompt:
arp -d
unplugging/replugging the Ethernet cable also works because the sensor sends a gratuitous ARP message informing its current IP address every time the cable is replugged. Anyway that problem was correctly fixed on version 2.21. Also we will try to add a troubleshooting section in our web page detailing this and other issues.
Finally, regarding the web interface, it was an experimental/non-documented/not-fully-tested functionality we decided to drop. So from 2.19 it is not operational. Good thing you explored thoroughly the sensor capabilities beyond what is written.
So you can just execute "arp -d" in your console instead of re-plugging the cable!
Samstag, 15. Juni 2013
Live Remote Stereo Vision
By combining the poor and impatient man's Oculus Rift, the Durovis Dive 3D printed smartphone virtual reality headset with ROS, I have built something I call "Live Remote Stereo Vision".
Creating pretty fair 3D video is much easier than most people think.
Two smartphones with ROS Java installed streaming their camera image directly to another smartphone is enough. There the streams are shown side by side on the display. Nearly no calibration is needed to get the 3D effect.
For now the streamed video has low frame rate and is uglily compressed, but I am working on improving this.
ROS_Image_Viewer.apk
ROS_Camera_1.apk
ROS_Camera_2.apk
They should work on all devices running Android >= version 4.
http://rosjava.github.io/rosjava_core/installing.html
My forked repository:
https://github.com/fivef/android_core
The ROS_Image_Viewer app is a modified version of the "android_image_transport_demo".
The ROS_Camera_2 is the "android_camera_demo" with just the node name and the publishing topics names changed.
I just hacked this together in a couple of hours so it's not done very nicely.
Creating pretty fair 3D video is much easier than most people think.
Two smartphones with ROS Java installed streaming their camera image directly to another smartphone is enough. There the streams are shown side by side on the display. Nearly no calibration is needed to get the 3D effect.
For now the streamed video has low frame rate and is uglily compressed, but I am working on improving this.
For everyone with 3 smartphones to try out:
Download these three apks:ROS_Image_Viewer.apk
ROS_Camera_1.apk
ROS_Camera_2.apk
They should work on all devices running Android >= version 4.
- Make sure all smartphones are connected to the same WLAN access point.
- Start the ROS_Image_Viewer.apk on the smartphone with the biggest display and highest resolution you have.
- Select "New Master"
- Note down the URI given as toast message including the port 11311.
- Start the ROS_Camera_1.apk and enter the noted down URI.
- Start the ROS_Camera_2.apk and enter the noted down URI.
- Align both camera smartphones next to each other. The distance between the camera lenses should be about the same as the distance between your eyes. Try to make them look forward parallelly.
- On the ROS_Image_Viewer smartphone make sure that the images are aligned correctly (Left camera left image, right camera right image)
- Put your smartphone into the Durovis Dive and enjoy.
For developers:
ROS Java install instructions:http://rosjava.github.io/rosjava_core/installing.html
My forked repository:
https://github.com/fivef/android_core
The ROS_Image_Viewer app is a modified version of the "android_image_transport_demo".
The ROS_Camera_2 is the "android_camera_demo" with just the node name and the publishing topics names changed.
I just hacked this together in a couple of hours so it's not done very nicely.
Sonntag, 19. Juni 2011
Sony LiveView cyanogen mod 7 repairing issues
Folgendes habe ich vor ein paar monaten auf xda-developers.com gepostet:
(Link to post)
I have found a solution for the repairing problems occurred on my Desire HD with cyanogen 7 RC 1.
copy this file with root explorer to your SD card. edit it with a text editor as described below and then copy it back with root explorer. Restart your device.
/data/misc/bluetoothd/[device bt id]/linkkeys
your linkkeys file has to look something like that:
00:1D:BA:ED:8C:57 FF579860A41CD5A627D9D1596526715C 0 4
00:01:95:08:20:6F 809CC84592E6C1B06AB750170C365812 0 4
6C:23:B9:9B:4A:85 5AF503E766858EA7916D46C16DD31A34 0 4
The last entry is my liveview.
I just changed the last two numbers from I think
-1 0 to 0 4 so that it looks like the other entries.
The 0 is the linkkey type and the 4 the pin lenght.
But I don't know what the 0 stands for.
Have no time for futher research.
I just know that now the liveview automatically reconnects without an annoying pairing prompt.
Update:
Hier noch eine Antwort mit weiteren Erläuterungen:
***************
*Fivef*, you're genius! :) You actually made this half-incomplete device usable!!!
People, I really think this information should be sicked to the first page, or posted in the FAQ, This simple hack changes everything about LiveView experience! So, I'd like to summarize here all the steps for correcting issues, which, by the way, SHOULD have been corrected by SonyEricsson much earlier. :(
Below is a small guide for turning LiveView from nerve-bending hell spawn to incredibly useful device. Root is _*required*_.
(assuming your phone has CM7 or factory Gingerbread - here I'm using HD2 + CM7 2.3.4)
1) Update LV firmware to the latest one
2) Install from the market ONLY "LiveView Application 1.0.A.0.18", _do not install _"LiveWare Manager"
3) Install your favorite plugins
4) Install from the market "Minfree Manager" and set "Secondary server" memory limit to 8 - 10mb (this will help LV App to stay activated all the time)
5) Insert "LiveView Application 1.0.A.0.18" to ignore list of all automatic task killers like "ES Task Manager" or "Auto memory manager"
6) Put LV into discovery mode and pair it to your phone. BT window will say "Paired but not connected", that's correct.
7) Using Root Explorer, apply _the incredible patch (http://forum.xda-developers.
*8) Find in the market & install the BEST android program I've seen yet - "*AutomateIt!*"
9) Create the following rule in this program:
*TRIGGER*: BLUETOOTH DEVICE CONNECTED (LIVEVEW)
*ACTION*: START APPLICATION (LIVEVIEW)
Using this incredible program, you can completely control every aspect of your phone's behavior - for example, automatically start PlayerPro and disable WiFi when wired headset is connected, automatically start WiFi when GPS detects that you have entered your home or office (!) and do million other cool things.
*By now, LiveView is set to operate completely by itself - no matter, what state is your phone in the moment, just switch the watch "on" and in a second it's connected.* No more manual start of LV app, countless disconnects and unnerving connect confirmations. In fact, LV is starting to work better than SE MBW-150 used to work on WM6.5!
*
I suggest sticking this post to the front page, so that newcomers wouldn't have to search for days (like I had to...)
*
Best regards,
Draco.
***************
(Link to post)
I have found a solution for the repairing problems occurred on my Desire HD with cyanogen 7 RC 1.
copy this file with root explorer to your SD card. edit it with a text editor as described below and then copy it back with root explorer. Restart your device.
/data/misc/bluetoothd/[device bt id]/linkkeys
your linkkeys file has to look something like that:
00:1D:BA:ED:8C:57 FF579860A41CD5A627D9D1596526715C 0 4
00:01:95:08:20:6F 809CC84592E6C1B06AB750170C365812 0 4
6C:23:B9:9B:4A:85 5AF503E766858EA7916D46C16DD31A34 0 4
The last entry is my liveview.
I just changed the last two numbers from I think
-1 0 to 0 4 so that it looks like the other entries.
The 0 is the linkkey type and the 4 the pin lenght.
But I don't know what the 0 stands for.
Have no time for futher research.
I just know that now the liveview automatically reconnects without an annoying pairing prompt.
Update:
Hier noch eine Antwort mit weiteren Erläuterungen:
***************
*Fivef*, you're genius! :) You actually made this half-incomplete device usable!!!
People, I really think this information should be sicked to the first page, or posted in the FAQ, This simple hack changes everything about LiveView experience! So, I'd like to summarize here all the steps for correcting issues, which, by the way, SHOULD have been corrected by SonyEricsson much earlier. :(
Below is a small guide for turning LiveView from nerve-bending hell spawn to incredibly useful device. Root is _*required*_.
(assuming your phone has CM7 or factory Gingerbread - here I'm using HD2 + CM7 2.3.4)
1) Update LV firmware to the latest one
2) Install from the market ONLY "LiveView Application 1.0.A.0.18", _do not install _"LiveWare Manager"
3) Install your favorite plugins
4) Install from the market "Minfree Manager" and set "Secondary server" memory limit to 8 - 10mb (this will help LV App to stay activated all the time)
5) Insert "LiveView Application 1.0.A.0.18" to ignore list of all automatic task killers like "ES Task Manager" or "Auto memory manager"
6) Put LV into discovery mode and pair it to your phone. BT window will say "Paired but not connected", that's correct.
7) Using Root Explorer, apply _the incredible patch (http://forum.xda-developers.
*8) Find in the market & install the BEST android program I've seen yet - "*AutomateIt!*"
9) Create the following rule in this program:
*TRIGGER*: BLUETOOTH DEVICE CONNECTED (LIVEVEW)
*ACTION*: START APPLICATION (LIVEVIEW)
Using this incredible program, you can completely control every aspect of your phone's behavior - for example, automatically start PlayerPro and disable WiFi when wired headset is connected, automatically start WiFi when GPS detects that you have entered your home or office (!) and do million other cool things.
*By now, LiveView is set to operate completely by itself - no matter, what state is your phone in the moment, just switch the watch "on" and in a second it's connected.* No more manual start of LV app, countless disconnects and unnerving connect confirmations. In fact, LV is starting to work better than SE MBW-150 used to work on WM6.5!
*
I suggest sticking this post to the front page, so that newcomers wouldn't have to search for days (like I had to...)
*
Best regards,
Draco.
***************
Samstag, 18. Juni 2011
USB to Serial Converter Kabel Windows 7 und Windows 8 x64 Treiber
Ich habe soeben ein älteres USB to Serial Converter Kabel von Prolific mit der Device ID:
VID_067B&PID_2303 und mit der Bezeichnung "Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port" im Gerätemanager zum Laufen bekommen. Die neusten Treiber von der Prolific Website haben nicht funktioniert. Nach kurzer Suche habe ich aber folgenden Treiber gefunden, für den ich hier einen Mirror anbiete: Download
Für Windows 8.1 x64:
Treiber Download
Über den Gerätemanager das Gerät aktualisieren wie in diesem Video beschrieben.
Wichtig ist dabei die Version 3.2.0.0 von 2007 auszuwählen, falls auch neuere Versionen auf dem System installiert sind. Die neueren Prolific Treiber unterstützen wegen geplanter Obsoleszenz manche alten Chips nicht mehr. Der Gerätemanager meldet dann:
Das Gerät kann nicht gestartet werden. (Code 10)
{Nicht genügend Quoten}
Für den angegebenen Vorgang sind nicht genügend Quoten für virtuellen Speicher oder die Auslagerungsdatei vorhanden.
Vorsicht: Beim Umstecken an einen anderen USB Port muss der alte Treiber erneut ausgewählt werden, da Windows anscheinend automatisch den neusten installieren Treiber verwendet. Also am besten gleich alle neueren Treiber deinstallieren.
Außerdem hab ich mir gleich noch einen guten Ersatz für Hyper Terminal installiert:
http://www.der-hammer.info/terminal/
Die Software bietet auch mehr Funktionen als Puttytel.
VID_067B&PID_2303 und mit der Bezeichnung "Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port" im Gerätemanager zum Laufen bekommen. Die neusten Treiber von der Prolific Website haben nicht funktioniert. Nach kurzer Suche habe ich aber folgenden Treiber gefunden, für den ich hier einen Mirror anbiete: Download
Für Windows 8.1 x64:
Treiber Download
Über den Gerätemanager das Gerät aktualisieren wie in diesem Video beschrieben.
Wichtig ist dabei die Version 3.2.0.0 von 2007 auszuwählen, falls auch neuere Versionen auf dem System installiert sind. Die neueren Prolific Treiber unterstützen wegen geplanter Obsoleszenz manche alten Chips nicht mehr. Der Gerätemanager meldet dann:
Das Gerät kann nicht gestartet werden. (Code 10)
{Nicht genügend Quoten}
Für den angegebenen Vorgang sind nicht genügend Quoten für virtuellen Speicher oder die Auslagerungsdatei vorhanden.
Vorsicht: Beim Umstecken an einen anderen USB Port muss der alte Treiber erneut ausgewählt werden, da Windows anscheinend automatisch den neusten installieren Treiber verwendet. Also am besten gleich alle neueren Treiber deinstallieren.
Außerdem hab ich mir gleich noch einen guten Ersatz für Hyper Terminal installiert:
http://www.der-hammer.info/terminal/
Die Software bietet auch mehr Funktionen als Puttytel.
Samstag, 30. April 2011
Samsung R40 NP-R40K006/SEG demontieren / Lüfter ersetzen
Der Lüfter eines Samsung R40 NP-R40K006/SEG Notebooks einer Freundin macht laute Geräusche.
Um zu überprüfen ob der Lüfter defekt ist oder nur zu viel Staub oder andere Fremdkörper das Geräusch verursachen habe ich den Notebook auseinandergebaut.
Google liefert einige Demontage-Anleitungen:
Auf deutsch:
http://www.p35-forum.de/notebookhersteller/samsung/software-forum/r-serie/7479-r-40-demontieren/?s=b9bf9cf15b58119c4abfa0ee383559711dcf7ba8
Auf englisch:
http://www.amitc.co.uk/blogentry.aspx?ID=21
Die englische Anleitung ist etwas vollständiger und genauer.
Ich hatte nur Probleme mit dem Entfernen der Lautsprecherabdeckung.
Dabei fängt man, wie in der englischen Anleitung in Schritt 15 beschrieben, auf der rechten Seite an.
Wenn die mit "Hinge" beschrifteten Schrauben auf der Unterseite des Notebooks entfernt sind, kann die Lautsprecherabdeckung zwischen Modem Port und dem Modem Port Aufdruck gegriffen, zu sich her gezogen und gleichzeitig angehoben werden. (Wenn man von rechts direkt senkrecht auf den Port schaut)
Die restlichen Clips dann vorsichtig durch Hin- und Herbewegen und Anheben der Abdeckung lösen.
Leider war das Lager des Lüfters defekt, weshalb der komplette Kühlkörper mit eingebautem Lüfter ausgetauscht werden muss.
Hier gibt es die Einheit für 50€:
http://www.laptiptop.com/Samsung-CPU-Luefter-R40-NP-R40K006-SEG
Um zu überprüfen ob der Lüfter defekt ist oder nur zu viel Staub oder andere Fremdkörper das Geräusch verursachen habe ich den Notebook auseinandergebaut.
Google liefert einige Demontage-Anleitungen:
Auf deutsch:
http://www.p35-forum.de/notebookhersteller/samsung/software-forum/r-serie/7479-r-40-demontieren/?s=b9bf9cf15b58119c4abfa0ee383559711dcf7ba8
Auf englisch:
http://www.amitc.co.uk/blogentry.aspx?ID=21
Die englische Anleitung ist etwas vollständiger und genauer.
Ich hatte nur Probleme mit dem Entfernen der Lautsprecherabdeckung.
Dabei fängt man, wie in der englischen Anleitung in Schritt 15 beschrieben, auf der rechten Seite an.
Wenn die mit "Hinge" beschrifteten Schrauben auf der Unterseite des Notebooks entfernt sind, kann die Lautsprecherabdeckung zwischen Modem Port und dem Modem Port Aufdruck gegriffen, zu sich her gezogen und gleichzeitig angehoben werden. (Wenn man von rechts direkt senkrecht auf den Port schaut)
Die restlichen Clips dann vorsichtig durch Hin- und Herbewegen und Anheben der Abdeckung lösen.
Leider war das Lager des Lüfters defekt, weshalb der komplette Kühlkörper mit eingebautem Lüfter ausgetauscht werden muss.
Hier gibt es die Einheit für 50€:
http://www.laptiptop.com/Samsung-CPU-Luefter-R40-NP-R40K006-SEG
Donnerstag, 28. April 2011
Shu SA Lite: Packen per Kommandozeile
Shu Standalone Lite ist einen Wrapper für Adobe Air Anwendungen, der es ermöglicht diese auf einem System ohne Adobe Air Runtime und Admin-Rechte auszuführen.
Der Hersteller liefert ein "Packager Programm" mit dem per Drag n Drop eine *.air Datei zu einer *.exe Datei konvertiert wird.
Dieses Packager Programm kann aber auch per Kommandozeile verwendet werden, was auf der Herstellerseite scheinbar nicht dokumentiert ist.
Die Datei liegt bei der Standard-Installation in folgendem Verzeichnis:
C:\Program Files (x86)\CJT Ltd\Shu Standalone\packager.exe
Der Aufruf von packager.exe test.air verarbeitet die Datei "test.air" zu einer "test.exe".
packager.exe /?, -help, -h u.s.w. bringen keine weiteren Informationen.
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